sahelsounds

Group Dental (previously) from Nouakchott, is one of the most interesting bands I've had the chance to record and definitely the most unique. The music is distinctly modern, but incorporating a broad range of influences from the traditional scales of the Sahara (Moor, Peul, Soninke) to the imported sounds of their youth (Hendrix, Marley).

Ross from SonicAfrica was in Nouakchott last spring, and shot this video of a rehearsal:

The name of this song is Onakhara, which means "let's learn" . Baabi Sarr sing this song in soninke , and in this song he encourages Mauritanias people to learn their native languages.

Labels: mauritania, nouakchott

One of the premiere music venues in a country that otherwise does little to support the arts is the French Cultural Center(CCF). Aristocrats and expats mingle (is there any difference?) in a distinctively non-Mauritanian ambiance. Noura Mint Seymaly plays a set of "modern" Hassaniya music.

Noura Mint Seymaly - traditional
Noura Mint Seymaly - get on the floor!

Crosby is a Malian guitarist in Nouakchott, one of the fixtures of well known musicians, a group of the first modern band, notable for his dark sunglasses of which he always is wearing a pair. Along with a few other aging musicians, most every young guitarist learned from him. I ask him here to show me some of the Hassaniya scales.

Crosby

Labels: hassaniya, mauritania, nouakchott

First recording, from a BOB (Brothers of Blood) concert. B.O.B. is a Mauritania hip hop group that now lives in France. They arrived to a screaming crowd at this homecoming gig.


B.O.B. Concert


Ibrahim Boucoum, Malian guitarist in Sekou's studio does a bit of "griot" improvisation, a "freestyle" (in french). He asks my name and then proceeds to sing about myself and America and Obama (you don't need to speak French to understand that much). He is joined part way through by "Nasty", an R&B singer.


Mali Guitar 1


Mali Guitar 2


Abdoul "Baby" Sarr is one of the greater guitarists in Nouakchott. I visit him with his band via an introduction through a friend. Most of the group has been playing for some time, 30 years plus, notably Baby and his friend Jawara (the soloist). The three guitarists and percussionist play a few songs in Soninke, Pulaar, and Hassaniya (listen for the breakdown in the first track), a mixture of Reggae, Funk, and traditional sound.


Group Dental - Sida


Group Dental - Duty


Finally, a rehearsal session for an upcoming concert. The band is led by Sidi Baba, the singer, a flamboyant reggae rockstar, joined by myself and Boucar on the guitar and Khadim on Djembe. This track uses a traditional Pulaar folk song, but much of Sidi's music is strongly influenced by Baye Fall, one of the Marabout brotherhoods in Senegal.


Rehearsal with Sidi Baba

Labels: bayefall, mauritania, nouakchott

A recording from a practice session of an upcoming concert here in Nouakchott. I'm playing some sparse guitar accompaniment with two musicians from Senegal, Sidi Baba and Khadim, who sing and play the Djembe respectively.

hayo


Omar's shop in Cinquieme, the kids are playing some game, singing a song.

kids

Salif plays a production he's made on his computer, a fusion of hip hop and traditional Pulaar folk guitar.


salif


Outside Sekou's studio, a Baye Fall group, followers of one of the Senegal brotherhoods pass by, drumming, collecting alms.


bayfal

Labels: hiphop, mauritania, nouakchott, senegal

A wedding in cinquieme, held under a tent, in one of the numerous sand courtyards in the neighborhood. You can't not be a spectator. There is an electric guitar and a dozen hand drums, as well as a griot singer.

soninke wedding


Later that night, the wedding moves indoors. I stand out in the darkness outside the mosque to take a recording from over the wall.

drums


Salif is a Pulaar folk musician; guitar student and instructor. He has a hair salon seperated by a sheet from the tailor next door.

pulaar folk


Sekou and Cos2Cos have a recording studio. It is also a haircutting salon and cell phone repair shop. Cos2Cos puts together a reggaeton track, and Abid, a rapper from the Central African Republic stops by for an impromptu improvisation.


studio recording


At sunset in the marche capital - Hassiniya music blares from the cassette shop nearby while the cars fight their way through the gridlock.


sunset

Labels: hiphop, mauritania, nouakchott, pulaar, soninke

in cinquieme, i usually wake to this prayer call from the mosque next door. it's in soninke, one of the small languages spoken in the region, and is one of the first prayer calls i've heard with a woman's voice. sometimes is goes on for fifteen minutes or so, but it's soft and nice to wake to, even at four in the morning.


prayer call

Labels: mauritania, nouakchott