sahelsounds

Along the border of Senegal and Maurtianian, one finds the ancient kingdom of Fouta Toro - meandering rivers and wide floodplains, covered in scrubby forest and dust, and occasional green patches of irrigated rice and millet. The Isle of Morfil, named for the elephants which have long since vanished, lies in the plane; technically Senegal; but identified as Fouta.


Fouta Toro is old and complex in character. Myths and magic abound, castes and tradition stand strong against the onslaught of outward influence, predating the French colonialism, the Wolof language, even the Islamic invasion. In fact, it was from the Isle of Morfil that the Tekrur empire, joined with the Almoravids, marched upwards and onwards conquering the Iberian Peninsula.


The traditional music of Fouta is based on the Hoddu; but many traditional 'universal' songs have been adapted to the guitar.


Tidiane playing Douga

Tidiane playing Fanta




Group Lewlewal de Podor (Baye Aly N'Diongue, Tidiane Thiam, Demba Doka Barry) rehearses daily next to the barber shop in Podor. They play traditional folk music, but incorporate modern elements; the songs are in Wolof and Pulaar.


Group Lewlewal with Touba


Group Lewlewal with Tara (traditional)


Traditional Pulaar literature is oral - stories often being sung. One of the more interesting forms of literature is that of Pekane. The Pekane is performed solely by the cubaalo or fisherman caste, and in its variety of forms can be used to tell a story, poetry, geneaology, or the more mysterious incantation, to speak and call forth fish. The little village of Ngoulé is a few kilometers from Podor - but it's here that one of the most famous legends of Fouta is based, Seeku Balli and his battle with the Crocodile Ngari Ngoulé.


The story of Seeku Bali, as performed by Ngari Ngaoule and Souleyman Sarr


Ngaoule is a beautiful mystic place. Like the combination of Gabriel Garcia Marquez novel and a Japanese Ronin folk tale. When I arrive on donkey cart, I make directly for the river. The bank is lined with green mango trees, and a few people in the distance are bathing or washing or pushing out on their pirogues. If you listen closely you can hear a bird in the tree. And a mango drop.

Ngaoule

Labels: fouta, pulaar, senegal

The Peuls are group of historically pastoral people stretching from the Senegal to Cameroon. But the Pulaar culture in Mauritanian is distinctly that of the Senegalese River that defines the border between the two countries. The music of "le fleuve" has been commercially popularized by Baba Maal, and he has no doubt aided to it's survival and repitition.


Sall is a folk guitarist - a true folk guitarist. He has no interest in playing concerts, but will gladly pick up the guitar in his salon in the "African quarter" as the array of toddlers wander in and out. He's often joined in song with his wife, Kumba, or his children, if they can be coersced to sing along. Notice crying infants, bleating goats, and clanking tea glasses (all integral to Mauritanian recordings).


Sall explains the "base" of Peul folk music


Sall with family


Sall and Kumba


Abderahmane Amdou Ba, also known as Daarorgal Fulbe, Pulaar griot, sings in a rehearsal here with backing guitar of Baby (pronounced Bah-bi) Sall and Jawara, of the group Dentaal, accompanied by the jazz trumpet of Leon Nade, the director of the new music school here in Nouakchott.


Daarorgal Fulbe


Finally, in the spirit of field recordings...a nighttime walk through Cinquieme.


Cinquieme at night

Labels: mauritania, pulaar

A wedding in cinquieme, held under a tent, in one of the numerous sand courtyards in the neighborhood. You can't not be a spectator. There is an electric guitar and a dozen hand drums, as well as a griot singer.

soninke wedding


Later that night, the wedding moves indoors. I stand out in the darkness outside the mosque to take a recording from over the wall.

drums


Salif is a Pulaar folk musician; guitar student and instructor. He has a hair salon seperated by a sheet from the tailor next door.

pulaar folk


Sekou and Cos2Cos have a recording studio. It is also a haircutting salon and cell phone repair shop. Cos2Cos puts together a reggaeton track, and Abid, a rapper from the Central African Republic stops by for an impromptu improvisation.


studio recording


At sunset in the marche capital - Hassiniya music blares from the cassette shop nearby while the cars fight their way through the gridlock.


sunset

Labels: hiphop, mauritania, nouakchott, pulaar, soninke